I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Inj. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. That will at least tell you something. Thanks for the great question! EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. shut truck off. Thanks for the info Chris. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. me know how it works for you. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. Several good bits here. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Let's start by not assuming anything. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. (Do this while you are cranking.) Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. The throttle position should be zero. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. I did notice that when I thought I had it set We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. 1. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your idle counts from 0. It runs perfectly fine other wise. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! 63 bomb This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Comp. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Overview. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). Others might require 60 RPM. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI I appreciate everything you are saying. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. I've changed all the About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! The small rubber plug had a leak. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. no timing control. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. :-). Should the iac% fluctuate? This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. TPS% = 1 I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. The tps will not auto reset to zero. Don't try to correct for the fuel. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Once you so this, and after you have your CAN-to-USB harness attached to your laptop with the Sniper software, you can see precisely the cells where the system is operating when the bog occurs. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Thank you. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Seems to behave more better now. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. They tell you to ask call Holley. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. When I shut it off then start it With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Any help would b great. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". It is simply for the benefit of the user. Hi. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. So you installed your Holley Sniper. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. I guess we can't have everything. such high fuel pressure. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. Thanks! I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. Hey Chris They are prone to be inaccurate. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. I will let you know what the results are. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. The window you saw in the image above pops up. $107.95. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Good luck! No problems with either cold or hot starts. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. MAP Sensor. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. nothing stays steady. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. The fix? Thank you for your input. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? Did you find this enlightening? Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try.

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